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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.